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Buying guide

Tankless Water Heater Sizing

A tankless heater never runs out of hot water, but it can run out of flow. Size it for the hot water you use at the same time and for how cold your water comes in. In New England, that second part matters more than people expect.

Step 1: Add up what runs at the same time

List the hot-water fixtures likely to run at once on a busy morning, not every fixture in the house, then add their flow rates in gallons per minute (GPM). Typical ranges:

FixtureTypical GPM
Shower1.8 – 2.5
Bathroom faucet1.0 – 1.5
Kitchen faucet1.5 – 2.2
Dishwasher1.0 – 1.5
Clothes washer (hot fill)1.5 – 2.0
Tub filler4.0 – 6.0

Two showers and a kitchen faucet at once is about 5–7 GPM. Check the flow rate printed on your own showerheads and faucets; low-flow fixtures bring the number down a lot.

Step 2: Work out your temperature rise

Temperature rise is how much the heater has to warm the incoming water: your target (usually about 120°F) minus the groundwater temperature. In New Hampshire and Vermont, winter groundwater runs roughly 40–45°F, so plan on a 75–80°F rise. That’s much harder work than the 50–60°F rise in southern states.

Every tankless heater has a flow chart showing GPM at each temperature rise. Read the row for your rise, not the headline “up to” GPM, which assumes warm groundwater.

Gas vs. electric output

As a rough rule, heating water takes about 500 BTU per hour for each GPM and degree of rise. At a 77°F rise:

  • A 199,000 BTU condensing gas unit delivers roughly 4.5–5 GPM, enough for two showers at once in most homes.
  • A 27 kW whole-house electric unit delivers roughly 2–2.5 GPM, about one shower in winter. It also needs a large electrical service, typically several dedicated 40-amp, 240-volt circuits.
  • Small electric point-of-use heaters suit a single sink far from the main heater, not a whole house.

If the math comes out close, size up. An undersized unit shows up as a shower that turns lukewarm when someone runs the dishwasher.

Venting, gas line, and installation

Gas tankless heaters draw far more gas while running than a tank heater, so the existing gas line often needs upsizing. Condensing units vent with PVC; non-condensing units need stainless venting. Local code covers all of it, so have a licensed plumber or gas fitter confirm the gas line, venting route, and electrical before you order.

Want a second opinion on sizing?

Tell us your fixtures, how many people shower in the morning, and whether you have gas or electric. The counter will suggest a unit and check it against the manufacturer’s flow chart.

Ask the counter